Friday 8 March 2013

Saints and Sects

Cap Malheureux Roman Catholic Church
Racial barriers in Mauritius are dissolving and being replaced by the sort of class, income and educational differences that the world finds more palatable. Today, any kind of discrimination is frowned on all around the world, but nothing endorses identity like a cohesive religion, and in Mauritius, religion, more so than skin colour, is one of the defining demarcations in society. 

Jacques Laval
The French brought the Roman Catholic church to Mauritius but today the congregations are spread across all racial groups.The most renowned Mauritian priest and missionary was Jacques Laval (1803 - 1864) who devoted himself to the emancipated slaves amongst whom he lived. He learned and spoke fluent Créole and committed his life to the moral and spiritual upliftment of the emancipated slaves. 
He was the first person to be beatified in the pontificate of Pope John Paul II. 
Della Thielamay
"I am Mauritian, Chinese, Indian and French."


Only about a third of the population claim to be Christian, while half are Hindu and about a sixth Muslim. Many of the Chinese ethnic group declare themselves as followers of both Buddhism and Roman Catholicism, and the Créole population adhere to many denominations of Christianity including Pentecostal and Evangelical sects. 

That's Mauritius for you: a wonderful hotch-potch of race and creed that reaches all aspects of each culture, from music and art to food and religion. Della Thielmay is a London-based young Mauritian who proudly declares her heritage: "I am Mauritian, Chinese, Indian and French." Which just about says it all!

Lord Shiva



March (sometimes February) is the month of the great Hindu pilgrimage of Maha Shivratri, which marks the marriage of Lord Shiva to the goddess Parvati. 
This festival is considered auspicious for women,who generally observe this fast zealously to appease Goddess Parvati, as she is considered to be the bestower of marital bliss and a long and prosperous married life. 
Lord Shiva is deemed as an ideal husband by women of the Hindu faith. 



Made it! A group of pilgrims rest after their long walk

On the occasion of Maha Shivratri, Hindus from all over Mauritius walk to Grand Bassin, the crater lake of an extinct volcano, whose waters are considered sacred. 


They bring with them shrines from their local temples , carrying them or wheeling them on barrows. 
All the roads are immaculately swept and maintained as some of the  pilgrims walk barefoot, and along the way food-stalls spring up at the roadside, providing refreshments for the pilgrims.

The giant statue of Shiva




Many devout Hindus fast during the day and keep a night-long vigil. sometimes for a week or more leading up to the festival. 
Once they reach Grand Bassin, they take water from the lake back to their local temples, all over the island.



The piety and devotion  of the pilgrims were impressive; as were the thorough organisation and carefully-planned logistics. 


Above all, there was a pervasive sense of tradition and respect that contrasted sharply with the pomp and circumstance of some of the processions I saw when I lived in Italy.



It was an impressive sight - even as I saw it, a couple of days before the main event, and a reminder of how a previously uninhabited island has adapted to the beliefs and traditions of its human invaders. 

No comments:

Post a Comment